my Christmas tree on my veranda
Holidays in Jamaica
There is no Thanksgiving Day in Jamaica but Peace Corps tried its best to help us celebrate. They arranged for some necessary meetings to be held the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving . So Friday night we had a pot luck Thanksgiving dinner with about 70 volunteers and PC staff and their families. It took some creative thinking on how to transport your potluck item via public transport to Kingston. We had jerk chicken- turkey is available in the more extensive grocery stores but very expensive. We had all sorts of Jamaican and US dishes and was really very nice for a lot of us to be together. Luckily for me, I had one of the Sat. morning meetings and there were even leftovers!
Christmas- not a lot happened at my school- no Christmas program, just some readings at morning devotions but not the singing of Christmas carols or spirituals that I had expected, and looked forward to. I did attend the Prospect Academy Christmas Carol Service. That was absolutely wonderful. This is a small military academy offering a free education to poor Jamaican males. They have to be tested and interviewed and only 13 are admitted to each class. They live on campus, help with chores, and they were the ones giving the concert. They marched up the drive at dusk with candles in plastic cups along the path. Full military uniforms and even bagpipes! The song selections were wonderful, some traditional, some Jamaican, some fun. It included a saxophone solo, organ solo and a trio of bagpipers!. Was a perfect evening, just what I had been missing.
My students tried to explain Grandmarket to me- this, in their opinion, is the epitome of the Christmas festivities. Jamaican have not been Americanized with a concentration on gift giving and receiving. It was explained that a Jamaican family would splurge on home decorations; new bed spreads, curtains etc. and maybe gifts for the children. No Santa, and no 3 Kings Day like in some other countries. Boxing day is celebrated as a holiday.
December 21-23 I made the trek to the Blue Mountains. After 2 buses, 3 taxis and a pickup truck, a bunch of PCVs and I arrived at Jah-B’s hostel in the Blue Mountains. The plan was to leave at 1:30AM to hike the 4 hours up to be at the peak for sunrise. My goal was just to get to the peak! There was a full moon, hence the date selection, But it was still dark along the trail! It was cool to look down on the lights of little towns and even Kingston. They kept warning us how cold it would be and to dress in layers, but I don’t think they know what Minnesotans think is really cold. I had on too many layers and had one off pretty quickly! Eventually I was at the end of the group ( 2 chose not to continue) but I kept trudging along, just determined to get to the top eventually. And I made it! About 7AM, a 6 mile hike, one way. Up to 7,404 ft. I was exhausted, and most of the group had passed me on their way down! But the views were worth it! I was adopted, thankfully, by 4 Jamaican college students who got to the top the same time ,so we all went down together. At least now you could see the trail and the views and the flora, and stop to take photos. Carol and Ron (Blue Mt PCAs) were waiting at the Rangers Station (halfway mark) for me and we finished the hike and collapsed into a bed! I spent a second night at the Wildflowers Hostel- no electricity but running water- I was given a lantern, and I had a whole bunk room to myself. The next morning at 6AM I headed out for the long trip home, sore calves but no blisters, and a great feeling of accomplishment!
Juanita came down from her “back a bush” site to spend Christmas Eve with me. My landlord Steve and his family took the 2 of us to Grandmarket around 7PM. Ocho Rios was full! A giant street party with vendors of all sorts- food, trinkets for kids, those glow stick necklaces , all sorts of clothing, and shoes galore! Just spread out on a tarp practically anywhere. Juanita and I were fearful of getting separated but young Steven, (11) made sure he was holding my hand or arm and I made sure Juanita was behind me. After walking around for a few hours- looking for some specific shoes for Chantal (age 14) we stopped at the Island Grill around 11PM for something to eat. Then home by around midnight, We understand the street dancing started closer to 1AM and ran till dawn. I had been looking for a Christmas Eve church service but no one seemed to be holding one- Most churches had a Christmas morning service at 6AM or 7AM. I did not make one of them. Juanita, Trish (another PCV) and I had a lovely Christmas Day dinner together.
Next came New Years Eve/Day. Again, I set out to find out what Jamaicans did. I learned it was traditional to go to a Watch Night service at church to pray in the new year. Or some families had parties at home New Years Eve. In Kingston there was a big waterfront concert with fireworks which was on TV, so that is what I did. I missed the New Years Day football games and especially the now traditional outdoor NHL game. I thought about finding a sports bar, but it seemed like not so much fun alone, and too expensive on my PC budget.
So now it is 2011, school has started again, and things are back to a more regular routine. I hope you all a safe and peaceful 2011!
