June- July 2011 School Summer Holiday began noon, July 1!

Monday, June 27th the Breadnut Hill Primary Grade 6 students had their school leaving exercise at a nearby church. In other words; graduation. Unfortunately 9 students were asked not to attend due to behaviour issues. It was an elaborate affair, the students were in school uniforms, but the staff and most all the parents were very well dressed- more like wedding attire than church attire! Luckily, I have my one dressy dress (I wore it to the US Embassy for our swearing in ceremony). There were speeches by various persons, a guest speaker, and one by the top student. Trophies were awarded to those who scored the highest on the GSAT exam. A very nice event.
The last week of school was crazy- teachers were busy correcting tests and completing student reports. The students who did come to school pretty much had free time the whole day. Thanks to my daughter, I had brought back some Disney DVDs so the library became a movie house. The teachers loved that there was somewhere for the kids to go. I was busy all week! I was able to complete a report for the principal about the progress the students I had been tutoring made for the year. Out of the 36 students I worked with, 10 showed no improvement, 13 went up 1 grade level, 8 went up 2 grade levels and 3 went up 3 grade levels. The staff was pleased with this progress. I’m not sure that I’m that pleased, although when I look at the 10 who showed no progress, I found that they had the worst school attendance. They came to tutoring barely 50% of the time if that.
4th of July! Wow was I ever fortunate! The US Ambassador invited a few Peace Corps volunteers and staff to the US Embassy for the big American 4th of July Celebration. I was invited but wasn’t notified until that Saturday, and I was in the middle of the island helping at an eco-fest and spending the night at Baboo’s Garden, a fun little eco lodge (no electricity) in Accompong a Maroon village. Maroons are descendents of runaway slaves who hid out in the mountains and harassed the British for years until they finally signed a treaty and were given autonomy and their own land, sort of like a reservation. Very interesting history and they have their own unique culture. I then was heading to Juanita’s place for Sunday night so I had to borrow a skirt from her so I could be at least somewhat appropriately attired! There were all kinds of dignitaries there- from Jamaican business CEO’s, government ministers and directors, representatives from other embassies, etc. The US Marines presented the colors, the ambassador gave a short speech, and then we enjoyed an all American buffet! Hotdogs and hamburgers, ribs and wings, potato salad and baked beans, ice cream and cake... The 6 of us volunteers were in 7th heaven! And trying to fit in a little bit of everything! The Peace Corps put us up for the night at a little hotel near the PC office, and we came in to help out the next morning for a few hours. The office was really busy because the newest group of PC Volunteers had just arrived on island a few days before, and had just started their training. I haven’t met any of them yet, but will be hosting 2 the end of July when they do what is called “shadowing”. They visit a current volunteer to see and hear what life is really like as a PCV in Jamaica. I remember my shadowing experience was really, really helpful.
Monday, July 11 was the start of my 3 week Adventures in Learning Summer Camp for boys! Supply items were purchased- quite a process- first I had to go get an invoice with everything itemized, then go to the principal to have her write out the check, then she had to find a second person to co sign the check, then I could take the check and go get the items. But everything worked out fine. Schedules had been set, then rearranged, and reset. All 12 boys were confirmed and registered; actually 13 boys as 1 boy was going to miss the first week, so we asked another boy to come. I will share all about camp on my next blog, when camp is over. But the first week went GREAT!

May/June 2011. It’s getting hot in Jamaica!


I’ve been busy with a variety of end of school year events at Breadnut Hill Primary. Miss Gowie, my principal, very generously makes sure I am included on all trips. I went along on a school field trip to the Prospect Plantation- only about 60 students went (out of a school population of 250) but it was a good trip, highlighted by camel rides (for an extra fee of course!)! As a chaperone, I got a camel ride as well! The students loved it! I also went along when the school’s 3 dance groups went to the parish of St. Ann dance finals. All the groups looked great to me- and we came back with 2 silver medals and 1 gold. The senior (grades 5 & 6) group won the gold and they qualified to go to Kingston and dance in the National finals on June 17. I went on that all day trip (6am until 10pm) and was proud of how well they did- but no trophy. The dancers were disappointed, as you might expect. The event on that day was just for class 3 dance groups (ages 10-12 year olds) and there were a variety of dance categories; folk, modern, praise, dance skit, and popular. That day there were 71 performances which I thoroughly enjoyed. I was truly impressed with the calibre of the dances and the costumes. Our group danced in the folk category and there were 9 other entries in that category.
At school the main focus has been the nationwide grade 3 and 4 exams held June 14 and 15. Teachers in those grades did a lot of reviews including mock exams. Each student was asked to bring in $200 J to help pay for the paper used for the exams. I’m not sure what happens if a student doesn’t bring in the money. The other students were told to stay home on Wednesday so that the students taking the exam could be spread out and monitored. We also had an unfortunate incident in which 2 Grade 6 boys got into a serious fight. One boy ended up in the hospital with 2 stab wounds, the other boy has been suspended for 2 weeks. The school atmosphere here is rough- lots of aggressive behaviour- such as pushing, shoving, and hitting. The girls are just as likely to be involved as the boys. The students are not fazed by yelling at them. Even though corporal punishment is not allowed per the Ministry of Education, there is a lot of ruler slapping on the desk, and other threats to enforce discipline. Positive reinforcement and clear behaviour guidelines are just beginning to be developed. Students at my school, and I think throughout Jamaica, have a different sense of personal space than I am used to. Most likely due to the smalling up in taxis and buses and in classrooms where 3 students share desks designed for 2. 45 students are in a one classroom with no space between the desks. There is constant pushing in lines, and cutting in front of others. I am having problems with students pushing to get in line for the computers at lunch even though I have explained that I check their names off and they don’t get a second turn until everyone gets a first turn. If they don’t get on a computer that day they just hang around the door watching. I find this very irritating and it disrupts those on the computers, or maybe not them, just me! Ahh, Peace Corps said we should get lots of chance to practice patience!
Besides school, I have been going to introductory meetings for a group trying to form a new Rotary Club in Ocho Rios. I have been impressed with this group and they have great ideas for community projects already. So maybe I will become a Rotarian soon!
I took a weekend trip to visit Juanita, another PCV, who is at a school in the bush- I stayed at her place and got a tour of her landlord’s farm- yams, and ginger mostly. Beautiful country side. We then went to Mandeville for an evening out with Diann and Benita, 2 other PCVs. Last week I journeyed to Lucea, west of Montego Bay to visit another PCV and saw yet another part of Jamaica. I enjoyed snorkelling in “her” bay, within walking distance of her apartment! I was a guest at her Lucea Rotaract social fundraiser event that night and was impressed with these young people and their efforts to raise money to buy a lightning guard for a small basic school located at the top of a hill in her parish. The school, built in 1970’s still does not have electricity! Apparently it has an electrical line but cannot hook up until they have the lightening guard! The group needs to raise about $150,000 J or $1750 US. So far they have raised about $50,000J. If you want to help, let me know! Patrice is working on a PowerPoint to share with Rotary in the US. When it is ready, I’ll pass it along!
After a week of lots of rain, it is now just HOT. And the mosquitoes are out in force! I look forward to weekends and the chance to get to the beach!

APRIL & MAY 2011 EASTER IN JAMAICA
Easter in Jamaica is an important holiday. School was off from Holy (Maundy) Thursday and all of the following week. Most businesses were closed Good Friday and Easter Monday. Church on Easter was at the same/regular time, no sunrise services. Lovely tropical flowers though! No coloured eggs or candy (well, I did buy myself a Cadbury chocolate Easter egg). The big Easter tradition is bun and cheese. The bun is a spice bread loaf and the cheese is a soft sort of processed cheese sort of like Velveeta.
On Easter Monday there were a number of big concerts going on island wide, but in St Ann it was kite flying day. I went to a huge field near St. Ann’s Bay to see the kite flying that afternoon. Lots of homemade kites- made by gluing plastic sheeting and using small sticks and long tails of old materials like sheets. The breezes off the ocean were pretty strong so the long tails were essential. I watched the builders of this huge kite made with bamboo struts and probably 8 feet across and 14 feet long try to launch their kite. They had about 6 men on the heavy nylon line. It went up maybe 6 feet off the ground then crashed. They spent a few hours patching and reinforcing the bamboo, but again it just barely flew. I wandered around watching lots of families, kids, and teens all with kites. For $1000 JA (About $10 US) I could have bought an entrance ticket to the official kite festival- with food vendors, contests, music (of course) and games, but I saw my fill of kites in the free parking lot, so skipped that.
The Tuesday after Easter my son Christopher came for a 1 week visit, he got to visit my school (but no students since it was Easter vacation). It was great to show him around, and he shared his expertise by doing some computer repairs at school and for a friend. We spent 2 nights at a rustic eco lodge in Portland parish called Great Huts, visited the Green Groto caves and Reach Falls. And cooked and ate jerk chicken and pork.
Our PCV group 81 had our mid service conference at the Shaw Park Resort- lovely accommodations and fabulous buffet food! We had 2 days of a behaviour change workshop which hopefully will come in handy for my year 2. Then another 2 days of PC business, reviews and policies. It was really good to spend some down time with our PCV friends in other parishes, and compare stories, frustrations and successes. Sadly 3 more of our group have left Jamaica for different reasons; we miss them and wish them well.
Great news from Texas, James Caden Grace arrived at 8 pounds +; both my daughter and grandson #2 are doing great!
On Saturday, May 21st, I traveled across the island for a funeral. Myrtle Drummond was my Hellshire host mother and she was a pillar of the community and her church. Her funeral was quite elaborate. There was an outside tent for the overflow crowd with a closed circuit TV; many guests shared a song, a greeting, or condolences. There was also scripture, eulogy and sermon. Diane and I had to leave before the end since we had to travel at least 3 hours to get home before dark. Sad, but lots of assurance that Myrtle is in heaven with her Lord.


Monday, May 23 was Jamaica’s Labour Day. A national holiday which emphasizes doing labour for your community. I heard 2 themes: It takes a village to raise a child, and Labour for Literacy. On that theme, the NCB bank chose Breadnut Hill Primary School to share their labour. Over 100 NCB employees descended on the school ready to paint and plant. It was amazing and impressive- paint brushes were in high demand- so many wanted to paint! They painted the inside of the library, computer room, the staff room, and grades 1 and 2. Then they started in on the outside! They also planted hardy plants around the school. Most of the NCB crew left in the early afternoon after lunch (donated by Burger King), but then the Breadnut Hill Police Club showed up and took over the outside painting. Up in the library the NCB had donated the funds to have 2 walls of library shelves constructed, and they were installed and anchored to the wall after the paint dried. The eager NCB volunteers helped put our books on the shelves. It looks fabulous! A real library. This is something Jamaica should be really proud of- this tradition of labour on Labour Day!

Year 2 in Jamaica!
It seems amazing to me that I have been in Jamaica for over a year! I continue to work with my at- risk students at school- and have seen some progress in their decoding and phonics skills. Just as important are positive changes in behaviour. Now that I know the students and the school better, I think I expect better behaviour from my students. I continue to struggle with how to run the library in a better fashion, and so have invited a grade 2 class and the grade 1 class to come up for class library time recently. Some adjustments still need to be made, but I think this format will lead to more opportunities to share some wonderful stories and teach some library skills to all the students not just the ones who come up at lunch time. This will be my new challenge! Another challenge is to work out a better computer room system that gives more children computer time.
Sports Day competitions are held in March and April around Jamaica. We had our school Sports Day at a neighbouring school’s field. The school had been divided into 3 “houses” – and each house had entries into all the races. A variety of race distances were offered- 80 yd for under 9 year olds, 100 yd for under 11, under 13 then 200 yd races for all except the under 9’s, 400 yd and a 800 yd. Then 4 x 100 relays. The only field event was the cricket ball throw. The kids were excitedly cheering on their teams and the winning team (house) only won by 2 points! The winning kids went on to a district competition between 4 schools, and then a few went on to the St. Ann parish finals. Winners there go on to the National Stadium to run. Breadnut Hill won 2 bronze medals at the parish finals; pretty good I think since our school doesn’t have a field to practice on nor any teacher willing to coach the students. Most kids ran their races barefoot. Jamaicans are rightly proud of their international track stars and the students want to emulate them.

May 8 & 9 I travelled into Kingston for two wardens’ meetings. We had an interesting discussion about 2 surveys recently done in regards to Peace Corps Jamaica. We heard about sustainability and the frustrations on some volunteers’ parts about expectations to write and get grant money. I found this curious and sort of naive and idealistic: even in the United States’ YMCA world, grants are useful and necessary sources of money that local communities cannot always generate. More important is the commitment and investment the community makes that goes into the grant request. I just think of the Habitat for Humanity philosophy of sweat equity and “lending a hand up not a hand out.” And I am pleased with the community support for “my” summer camp program. I currently have 7 boys registered for the 12 camp spots. I have been worried about this aspect of the program as signing up in advance is not usual. Jamaica is also suffering from the high gas prices and Ocho Rios is losing cruise ship berthings to the new pier in Falmouth. So Breadnut Hill families are just making ends meet.
Ann, our PC safety and security person, reminded us of personal safety behaviours and about the upcoming hurricane season – June 1- November 30. Be prepared- with food supplies, with radios and batteries and candles etc. We have quite a system in place; from alert stage to evacuation if necessary. Now my job as warden is to hold a St. Ann parish meeting for all the volunteers (12) living here and pass on the information.
I am looking forward to a visit from my son Chris arriving on April 26th for a week! We have a number of fun activities planned as there is no school for the week after Easter. I feel so fortunate that he will be my 3rd family visitor! I am also looking forward to the safe arrival of grandson #2 due around May 4th.

March Anniversaries!
The end of February came quickly and I submitted my SPA grant request for a 3 week Adventures in Learning Summer Camp for Boys. And on March 5th I learned it had been approved! I am really excited about this program and have found a young Jamaican, Mr. Gooden, to assist. He has been student teaching at Breadnut Hill Primary so he even knows some of the boys. The camp will include swim lessons (of course!) field trips, a service project (shelves for the school library) and basic literacy and math skill reviews. You’ll hear more about it as we get into more detailed planning. But I am definitely excited!
Peace Corps encourages us to be connected with a school in the U.S. I have a World-wide School in South Chicago- the Bradwell School of Excellence. We have just had the first set of pen pal letters between the two 5th grades. We hope to come up with some more creative ways to connect the 2 classrooms. This is part of what Peace Corps calls the 3rd goal: To help Americans have a better understanding of other peoples in developing countries. It widens the Jamaican students’ horizons as well.
March 1, 2011 Peace Corps celebrated its 50 year anniversary of being founded. I was one of the lucky ones who attended a Peace Corps Anniversary Celebration at the U.S. Ambassador’s residence in Kingston. There were speeches and dignitaries. Since I remember JFK’s original proposal and question of “Ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country” this really meant a lot to me.
March 8 I flew to Texas to spend time at Carrie and Justin’s helping get ready for baby brother’s arrival around May 4. It was strange having traffic drive on the other side of the road, and to actually drive instead of taking route taxis everywhere. I did come home from a shopping trip to Target early because I told Carrie I was on shopping overload- too many choices and decisions! But it was great to spend time with Jackson (now 6) and his parents. I came back with 48 pounds of books collected and donated by the Romeo group of Exeter, NH. The books will be added to the Breadnut Hill Primary School Library. I feel very fortunate to have such great support from family and friends in the States- these books will really help the students here have a better education. Thanks Dad and friends!
I returned March 17th – exactly 1 year from when I flew to Miami and signed in to Peace Corps Jamaica! Seems amazing how much I’ve learned in one year, and what good PCV friends I have made! So on March 18 (1 year from actually arriving in Jamaica) a bunch of us met in Falmouth to celebrate. We went out in 2 boats that evening to see the Glistening Waters of Falmouth. Due to millions of microscopic organisms called dinoflagellates, the water in this lagoon actually glows! Because of the bright full moon, we didn’t see too much glowing at first. But when I slid in the water and swam around –true enough the water sort of glowed as I stirred it up- how cool! And sort of a fitting way to celebrate our 1 year anniversary of being PCVs in Jamaica: sometimes we feel as if we glow, and other times we don’t feel as if there is any glow at all.

Photos: Ms VanderWeele and gentlemen at school "Ladies and Gentleman's Day"
Connie and Pam on morning walk Ocho Rios Beach
Potter at Wassi Art Pottery Studio near Ochi
February 2011 in Jamaica
Happy Valentines’ Day- Jamaican style! There were some Valentine commercials on TV, no parties at school though. My sister Connie brought me 2 bags of those ultra traditional Valentine candy- those little conversation hearts. I put them in baggies for each classroom and explained to the students that US kids would have these at Valentine’s Day parties. Kids refer to most all candy as “sweeties” and many have come looking for more of those sweeties.
In February my sister Connie came to Montego Bay to help out with Mission Jamaica – an NGO who sends volunteers to help out at a home for disabled Jamaican children. She and friend Sandy did a lot of wonderful decorative painting. I joined them for a night at their all inclusive hotel- my first experience at one of those. I really felt like I was on vacation! (Which I was!) I loved the on-tap Pina’ Coladas and the 3 pools plus a beach- we did a little snorkeling plus a little kayaking and a lot of eating! Then Connie and I headed to my place. Connie came to school 2 days and helped out in a variety of ways- there is always something that needs doing! She also mastered the route taxi system into Ocho Rios and enjoyed the beach and the sun. We visited Coyaba Gardens and Wassi Art Pottery Studio. The Pottery Studio tour was wonderful- put it on your agenda if you come to Ochi. We saw how they treated the raw river clay from St. Mary parish into workable pottery grade clay, and then watched a potter at work. There are 13 artists employed there, each with his or her own style. We saw the firing kilns and the glazing process. So interesting! We saw wonderful colorful hand painted vases, cups, bowls and other items.

We enjoyed home cooked jerk chicken at a birthday party for everyone living in Steve’s “yard” – Steve is my super landlord who is always making sure I am safe, and taken care of. There are 5 tenants who rent from Steve in our yard. We listened to “vintage” reggae- the Bob Marley era which I really enjoy.
I have become a “regular” guest at the Ocho Rios Rotary Club. I am hoping to become a “real “member at some point. I have met John, a dentist trained in Cuba, and Chris, a structural engineer who studied in Trinidad and is the only one of 6 Jamaicans in his engineering class who returned to Jamaica to work. Brain drain is truly a problem here.
Right now I am busy finishing up writing a grant for a boys summer camp I am hoping to run this summer. (It is due on Feb. 25th.) Peace Corps has some US Aide money for Small Project Assistance grants for amounts up to $3000 US. I am hopeful that I will be approved for some of that money! (Thanks Wallingford YMCA for all that grant writing experience!)
Thinking of you all!

my Christmas tree on my veranda






Holidays in Jamaica

There is no Thanksgiving Day in Jamaica but Peace Corps tried its best to help us celebrate. They arranged for some necessary meetings to be held the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving . So Friday night we had a pot luck Thanksgiving dinner with about 70 volunteers and PC staff and their families. It took some creative thinking on how to transport your potluck item via public transport to Kingston. We had jerk chicken- turkey is available in the more extensive grocery stores but very expensive. We had all sorts of Jamaican and US dishes and was really very nice for a lot of us to be together. Luckily for me, I had one of the Sat. morning meetings and there were even leftovers!
Christmas- not a lot happened at my school- no Christmas program, just some readings at morning devotions but not the singing of Christmas carols or spirituals that I had expected, and looked forward to. I did attend the Prospect Academy Christmas Carol Service. That was absolutely wonderful. This is a small military academy offering a free education to poor Jamaican males. They have to be tested and interviewed and only 13 are admitted to each class. They live on campus, help with chores, and they were the ones giving the concert. They marched up the drive at dusk with candles in plastic cups along the path. Full military uniforms and even bagpipes! The song selections were wonderful, some traditional, some Jamaican, some fun. It included a saxophone solo, organ solo and a trio of bagpipers!. Was a perfect evening, just what I had been missing.
My students tried to explain Grandmarket to me- this, in their opinion, is the epitome of the Christmas festivities. Jamaican have not been Americanized with a concentration on gift giving and receiving. It was explained that a Jamaican family would splurge on home decorations; new bed spreads, curtains etc. and maybe gifts for the children. No Santa, and no 3 Kings Day like in some other countries. Boxing day is celebrated as a holiday.
December 21-23 I made the trek to the Blue Mountains. After 2 buses, 3 taxis and a pickup truck, a bunch of PCVs and I arrived at Jah-B’s hostel in the Blue Mountains. The plan was to leave at 1:30AM to hike the 4 hours up to be at the peak for sunrise. My goal was just to get to the peak! There was a full moon, hence the date selection, But it was still dark along the trail! It was cool to look down on the lights of little towns and even Kingston. They kept warning us how cold it would be and to dress in layers, but I don’t think they know what Minnesotans think is really cold. I had on too many layers and had one off pretty quickly! Eventually I was at the end of the group ( 2 chose not to continue) but I kept trudging along, just determined to get to the top eventually. And I made it! About 7AM, a 6 mile hike, one way. Up to 7,404 ft. I was exhausted, and most of the group had passed me on their way down! But the views were worth it! I was adopted, thankfully, by 4 Jamaican college students who got to the top the same time ,so we all went down together. At least now you could see the trail and the views and the flora, and stop to take photos. Carol and Ron (Blue Mt PCAs) were waiting at the Rangers Station (halfway mark) for me and we finished the hike and collapsed into a bed! I spent a second night at the Wildflowers Hostel- no electricity but running water- I was given a lantern, and I had a whole bunk room to myself. The next morning at 6AM I headed out for the long trip home, sore calves but no blisters, and a great feeling of accomplishment!
Juanita came down from her “back a bush” site to spend Christmas Eve with me. My landlord Steve and his family took the 2 of us to Grandmarket around 7PM. Ocho Rios was full! A giant street party with vendors of all sorts- food, trinkets for kids, those glow stick necklaces , all sorts of clothing, and shoes galore! Just spread out on a tarp practically anywhere. Juanita and I were fearful of getting separated but young Steven, (11) made sure he was holding my hand or arm and I made sure Juanita was behind me. After walking around for a few hours- looking for some specific shoes for Chantal (age 14) we stopped at the Island Grill around 11PM for something to eat. Then home by around midnight, We understand the street dancing started closer to 1AM and ran till dawn. I had been looking for a Christmas Eve church service but no one seemed to be holding one- Most churches had a Christmas morning service at 6AM or 7AM. I did not make one of them. Juanita, Trish (another PCV) and I had a lovely Christmas Day dinner together.
Next came New Years Eve/Day. Again, I set out to find out what Jamaicans did. I learned it was traditional to go to a Watch Night service at church to pray in the new year. Or some families had parties at home New Years Eve. In Kingston there was a big waterfront concert with fireworks which was on TV, so that is what I did. I missed the New Years Day football games and especially the now traditional outdoor NHL game. I thought about finding a sports bar, but it seemed like not so much fun alone, and too expensive on my PC budget.
So now it is 2011, school has started again, and things are back to a more regular routine. I hope you all a safe and peaceful 2011!